Weekend Gem: Cataloochee Divide Loop
Hey everyone, my laptop died a few months back and I haven’t thrown up a trail report in a bit, sorry for the delay of the good stuff. Yup, when looking for fall colors, nothing beats the Smokies! We hit the nail on the head with the timing on this one. Start out this 19.2 mile loop at the TH on the edge of a nice open meadow. Walk over the bridge and start the gentle climb up the Big Fork Ridge Trail. It starts out as an old road but quickly becomes a trail as you ascend the slope to where Mckee Branch Meets Caldwell in 3.2 miles. Head right at Mckee BR. Trail as it climbs above the branch of the same name, pushing hard for the Cataloochee Divide. Along the way, scoop up all the water you need for the night from a spring, flowing nicely from the left side of the Trail. Once on top, decide how much time you have? If you are doing good and you want to explore a bit, turn left and check out the Highlands Learning Center about a 1/2 mile away. Or, head straight and down to the Ferguson Cabin about the same distance away. Back on the game plan, makes a right and head along the Divide to just before Double Gap and set up camp. Remember that the right hand side of the Trail is Park Service Land and you can’t camp there, but the left is fair game and has incredible view of the Smokies to the NW and down to Maggie Valley to the south. Have a great night!
After a nice cup of joe in the morning, head out twoards Hemphill Bald and the SWAG. The SWAG is a boozy hotel for rich people that is a questionable distance to the Park’s boundary. A short side trail to the left brings you to their bathroom where you can take a piss and grab some water for the usually dry ridge ahead. Be careful not to disturb the folks playing cricket on the greens around the main cabin and grounds. After seeing how the other half lives, continue up to Hemphill Bald and great views down to Cataloochee Ski Resort far below. As you straddle the Park’s Boundary, on the right is Cataloochee Valley below and the BMT at eye level and of course, the magic beyond. On your left, the meadows open up and you begin to ascend to the top of Hemphill Bald. Along the way, there is more of the SWAG huts and perhaps a cow or two. When you get to the top, there is some weird radio tower crap along with a great place to have a bite as you look across Joyce Kilmer and the Citico Mountains to the south. Down below you can begin to see Cataloochee Ski Resort and Maggie Valley proper. It is a lovely sight to see the combo of a great town like Maggie Valley and the beautiful Smokies and no signs of civilization, the contrast is stunning! Just as quick as you climbed up. you drop now equally as fast to Pine Tree Gap. The next little bit on the trail climbs and depends as you traverse Sheepback Knob, drop to Maggot Springs (water?) and a few other knob to gap combos. This is my favorite part of the Divide. it has a more isolated feel than most of the ridge lines in the Smokies and offers great views of the Park to boot! When you really start dropping down, you know you are going to hit the road that goes to Polls Gap. The next 3.5 miles you make your decent to the Valley’s floor. You will pass Starlight Branch first, hit Caldwell and then contour next to Hurricane Creek. When you are next to the Creek, Bam, you are at your camp, #40. This sunny camp is airy and open compared to other creekside Smokies camps. Have a shot of whisky snd enjoy a night of stars and laughs.
Ahh yes, after a lovely night sleep slip into a cup coffee all slow like. Start out this extremely easy day of hiking by visiting the Woody House for a bit. With an interpretive sign or two, you are certain to learn a thing or two about pioneer living and this family. After the house the trail becomes more of a road as the meadows and your car come into view. Pop open a cold reward beer and change into some comfortable clothes for the ride home soaking in some music and the Smokies.