Weekend Gem: Gunter and Sterling Loop

Every backpacker has favorite areas that they find themselves attracted to for some reason or another, it  could be a subconscious connection. Maybe it’s the cut of the land or the way you feel in that spacial spot that is beyond human understanding. One of my favorites here is the eastern portion of the Great Smoky Mountains. I love the quiet trails, big streams and the wilder feel of this side opposed to the more popular west side. This 23.2 mile trip showcases everything I love about this land and when you throw in the begining of flower season in the mix, you can’t lose. Start out at the Big Creek TH off of 40 in NC, grab up your pack and head into the woods. The Trail follows and old roadbed for the first part, allowing for some side by side conversation to settle in a nice mood for the day. Soon, leave the crowds behind as you pass Midnight Hole, a legendary swimming spot with good reason. Next up, is Mouse Falls which pours into Big Creek from high up on Mt. Sterling several thousands of feet overhead. Soon, the road starts becoming more of a trail and the flowers begin. Fringed Phacelia, Spring Beauty and Squirrel Corn real me in as the assortment of growing things gets hard to fathom. Pass by Low Gap TR up to the A.T. and then Swallow Branch too as camp #37 comes into view. Pass by the well used group spots to find a nice small nook along the Creek and settle into this amazing setting. This is a good spot to hang your pack with your food at night because bear activity is almost expected due to high usage.

Start out the next morning going up the Creek again to camp #36 which is a horse camp and overflow for the popular #37. Hit Gunter Fork TR on your left and soak in the goodness of this much less traveled trail. My National Geographic Map says 5 crossing by I counted 8 and should not be attempted during times of severe thunderstorms or snowmelt. It is hard to see to see why in the begining of it, but by the middle of it, you get the gist that this is not a creek to be underestimated. Cross into nice pocket meadows that sprinkle the Trail for it’s entirety while the gentle grade brings you into the high country. Pass half U shaped gullies where the tremendous power of water is realized again and again. Soon you happen upon an amazing swimming hole with two small cascades pour into its emerald pool. Don’t be a wiener and jump on in, you only live once. After that is the most amazing sight of all, Gunter Falls which comes hurdling down off Thermo Knob of Balsam Mountain on a giant slab of rock. The lovely golden pools are only topped with a view of the whole falls from across the valley as you continue to climb. Topping out on Balsam Mountain, you make that left and follow a mostly flat grade that brings you to the BMT on Sterling Ridge. Make a left and take this rolling path with views out to Joyce Kilmer and the A.T. all the way down to Clingmans Dome. Pass the Swallow Fork TR again as the trail gets steeper, eventually leading to #38 below the old lookout tower of Mt. Sterling. The best views here are during sunrise into NC and a sea of mountains and very little human impact.

After a good night’s sleep, awake to a nice cup of joe and another climb of he Tower before packing up and heading out. The Ridge Trail now changes to Baxter Creek as it dives down hill. Some call this Bastard Creek and the hardest trail in the Park. Honestly, I have gone up and down this trail and find it to be rather gentle all in all, so don’t believe the hype. Views higher up into Tennessee are quite pretty and give you good layout of this side of the National Park and beyond. Soon down lower, you enter into luscious meadows of every color of flower and foliage imaginable. It is almost hard to believe how beautifully diverse this area really is. Take a few minutes to slow down your pace and your heart rate in this lovely setting. Minutes turn to hours if you let them slip away in this fantastic corner of the World. Soon the Trail drops down to Big Creek again as you cross the last bridge to the parking lot. Pop open your rig and grab that reward beer as the day peacefully drifts on.