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Weekend Gem-The Roan Highlands Traverse

Posted by eriksoltan on Nov 17, 2023 in Weekend Gem | No Comments

Holy hell, the Roan Highlands are beyond special! 21 miles of rounded meadows, sparse forest with the occasional old growth mixed in to keep you guessing. While the views of the more dramatic mountains surround you making the miles fly by. So, here’s the deal. You can do the 14 and go take a $55 shuttle from the Station that drops you at Carvers Gap and is only a short 3/4 of a mile from your finishing spot on Hwy 19. Or, hike the extra 6.7 miles and climb up the backside of Roan Mtn to the site of the legendary Cloudland Hotel and the highest shelter on the A.T and start at Hughes Gap. My vote is with the whole traverse in its entirety. Get the shuttle from the Station on Hwy. 19 and start your day accordingly for the 5.2 mile climb up to the Shelter. A word to the wise, while the elevation gain is substantial in this section, but it is a gentle climb. The shuttle driver called it “Friend Splitter Gap” which is a harsh card for this climb in my opinion, but still start out more earlier than later. Anyway, start at Hughes Gap and begin your climb right off the bat. The way is sometimes rocky, rooty or flattish. Relax, it’s only 5 miles so keep on plugging away at it. Once on top, you see the forest begin to open up to more meadowy surroundings. Crest up to the site of the Cloudland Hotel circa 1884 while enjoying the views into NC and Tennessee that suddenly become apparent. If you look at YouTube, you can find all kinds of wild videos about wacky liquor laws and ghostly singing that folks heard while living the posh life of expensive liquors and drugs. When you have had your fill, jump back on the A.T and head to the Shelter. Set up your hammock in a comfortable corner of the camping area and settle into a sweet sip of whisky while the windy hours lead to a sleepy sunset.

Wow!

I love you too

Wake up as the sun burns off the morning mist that ultimately reveal a lovely lovely fall day. Get your tea and grits on while you pack up your stuff, still warm from the night before. As you start to drop off the Mountain, you see the fall colors come flooding back to the landscape. Brilliant golds and rusts fill the forest as your spirits rise in the process. After over 20 years of relentless backpacking, I have seen some awe inspiring shit and the fall colors here always take my breath away. Like when you are in love with someone and you all of a sudden you want to wear a bright colored shirt, just because. Anyway, the way slowly switchbacks down to Carvers Gap, where the going gets really good! Cross the road and begin a gentle climb up to Round Bald. Next up is Jane Bald, perched up in a grassy expanse as the tourists begin to turn around back to their cars and looking longingly at your overnight pack, it’s sad really. After Jane, the A.T splits with the Grassy Ridge TR, stay left avoiding the eye candy on Grassy Bald. Take a moment to stop here and recognize the awe inspiring scenery that surrounds you and all the folks out here enjoying it with you, it’s a warm connective feeling for me.The trail starts dropping a bit as you start to notice small tricklers coming off Grassy to the right. Keep your eyes pealed for a small grey pipe if you need some water, some amazingly good water. Then steadily start a big, but mellow decent to Stan Murray Shelter in a wooded gap. Keep it truckin’ for a couple of short climbs and decents for the next 2 miles heading to the Overmountain Shelter. The Shelter is closed, but the grassy area it is located in has stellar views perched above the valley. Take a tent spot in the grass, or saddle up with a hammock setup on the edge of the meadow. Anyway you slice it, you can’t lose.

Round Bald

Jane Bald

Get up and get in gear for a monumental day of hiking! Begin by dropping down on the blue blazed trail to get some water. If I were you, I would get water when you can while up in the Highlands. I hiked from Carvers to Doll Flat a couple of weeks before this trip and found the flow to be much less abundant. Like that spring pipe past Jane Bald that I talked about beforehand was dry and so was Bradly Gap too. On this trip, both were flowing well but the Bradly spring was still dry. But it is fair to say that it has been a very dry end of summer/fall here in the Southeast. That said, begin your rocky slog out of Yellow Mountain Gap and up to the great views on Little Hump Mountain where the spring was flowing nicely this time around. This would be a nice spot to spend the night if the water is going, it has nice camps. drop down a bit to Bradly Gap where more lovely camp spots can be found. Continue to keep dropping down as the forest gives way to views to Hump Mtn on your right. If your beat, the way can appear ominous as you can see more or less to the top of the Mountain from this spot. It is in fact, a very nice climb up the open slope with bits of tree clusters and big boulders about. It is a steady climb, but not steep or as time consuming as you might have thought previously. Once on top, enjoy the best views of the trip so far with big peaks all around you. To the southwest you see the incredible Linville Gorge with Hawksbill sitting proudly above to the right of the Valley. To the North, you can see the Smokies finally come into view. Continue on this open ridge in this most impressive ridge walk that I have seen on the A.T so far. When you see the small spruces at the end of the Ridge, this is where you begin to drop down out of this magical mountain spot. Now it’s 2.4 miles down to the Doll Flat area. The first part is steep and exposed and the last part is rocky and rooty, but the amazing fall colors take your breath away. Once at the Flat, you should grab some water if you need it before the 3 miles down to the Highway. The trail here mellows out and switchbacks gently to the valley below. Once on the road, make a right and get your car. Change out of your hiking clothes and pop open a beer as that euphoric feeling takes over your calm mind. Get in your rig and soak in the goodness on the ride home with some good music.