Momentous Adventures-A Pecos Traverse (Part 1)

I’ve never been to New Mexico before but I’ve always thought it was like Arizona, nothing could be further from the truth. Once we left the high desert of Taos and got to the TH near Sipapu Ski Resort you could see a noticeable change in the scenery. Sagebrush and Juniper give way to a lovely forest of Ponderosa Pine, Aspen and Blue Spruce. Higher up are miles and miles of alpine ridge lines that are more rounded and less rugged than other parts of the Rockies. This aspect invites the wilderness backpacker to step off the trails and explore at will far more easily. It’s like the Ice Age glaciers sculpted this land specifically for that exact purpose. This is the Pecos Wilderness in all its glory. Start off at the TH and head up the trail of the same name into some nice pocket meadows right off the back before hugging a creek. Hop over the waterway a few times before getting into a burn area that continues for some time. Remember, it’s crucial that you have a good map of the area in order to make the right turns to stay on the Agua Piedra TR through some questionable intersections. When you start climbing out of the valley, you start climbing out of the burn too. Here the forests are a welcome sight as you climb to the Serpent Lake TR, make a right onward and upward. Keep up a steady incline before dropping down a steep slope into the Lake Basin. Nice spots are scattered in the open forest above Serpent facing the Santa Barbara Divide. Enjoy the alpenglow as your day comes to a close and this joyfully remote location.

After a nice breakfast get back on the trail and head back up that steep section as it levels off. It soon hits the Divide TR and starts heading up gravelly switchbacks to the expansive Santa Barbra Divide. Remember you are this ridge for 8 miles, so pace yourself. Keep in mind that most folks have to dip off Divide at some point due to its 12,000 ft elevation and the nasty thunderstorms that can occur in this mostly shelter less environment, so watch those clouds. Follow large carins as the trail disappears and reappears erratically. It’s real easy to follow as long as the weather is cooperating with you. The way is mostly gravel or small rocks but occasionally becomes more scrambling or even grassy. This amazing ridge features summit like views but is quite rounded off and gentle, truly the best of both worlds. After about 3 miles you will see ahead has a mountain in the middle of it. That’s Santa Barbra Mountain that you need to climb. Reach the top of the Mountain by way of swooping switchbacks. Once on top look to both sides of you to see to see both East and West branches of the Santa Barbara Creeks work their way down the mountains, a most amazing sight. Begin the gentle but then steep decent back down to the Divide. Once at the bottom, take a look over your shoulder and be glad you didn’t come up from this direction. Finish the last miles 4 miles of the ridge as it lazily ascends and drops eventually meeting with some small subalpine first before dropping off the Divide and into the forest. Stay on the Skyline TR while it putters down to the base of the Truchas Mountains that have been growing closer all day. Here you drop and then ascend a bit to Lower Truchas lake on a nice shelf below the peaks. Find a camp you are stoked on and settle in for the night at this lovely and lonely lake.

After a restful night get yourself back on the trail heading to Trailriders Wall. A short traverse into a scenic subalpine basin with the last creek for a while leads you to a meadowy notch taking you to the base of the Wall. Here you can see the Skyline TR as it contours the side of the ridge and eventually winding its way to the top. Stunning views of the Truchas Peaks from this vantage point are mind melting while the sight of Pecos Baldy make you excited to see what’s ahead of you. Like a miniature version of the Santa Barbara Divide, but instead of waking to the big peaks you are surrounded by them. Climbing to the Wall’s shoulder at its end is a good time to look behind at the amazing landscape you have already traversed. This view is perhaps the best of the entire traverse. Now you slowly drop off the ridge and back into denser forest. After a few meadows and wooded miles you climb a bit to the more open and airy woods around Pecos Baldy Lake. There are a nice selection of camp spots below the Lake, so if you have some time I recommend that you stay for a spell. This pretty pool is situated below East Pecos Baldy is easy to remember with it’s lone dead pine standing like a sentinel for all to see. If you need to get water from the outlet here you can by way of a small stream that quickly disappears underground. It is good to note here that all the lakes we went past on this trip were difficult or impossible to find any inlet. Here is where you jump off the Skyline TR and onto Jack’s Creek TR as it drops out of the high country avoiding a bad burn. This lovely way follows the Creek before meeting up with the Dockweiler TR, jump on that next. This Trail makes its way through old Aspen forests and meadows before dumping out at the Cave Creek TR. Make a right onto this Trail and begin looking for a campsite for the night. There is one in an open meadow after a short distance or a better one just a bit beyond after a creek crossing. Set up and make a bite to eat as the sun descends below the ridge line.